Stock Fencing

Stock wire fencing available in mild steel and high tensile options.  An effective, economical method of separating and protecting livestock, dividing fields and creating boundaries.

Also see a full range of farm and agricultural fencing

  • Manufactured in Europe, conforms to BS EN standards



Full product details


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Product Information: Stock Proof Fencing

Understanding Mesh Configuration

High Tensile

Attributes Choose from:
  • Up to 3 times stronger than mild steel (approx. 1050-1250 N/mm)
  • Can be strained tighter than mild steel
  • Will not stretch due to weathering 
  • Will not need retightening every year – less maintenance
  • Requires half the number of posts for installation
  • Knotted hinged joint
  • Heavily galvanised to BSEN10244 standards
  • HT9/100/15
  • HT8/80/15 

Mild Steel

Attributes Choose from:
  • Tensile strength range: 600-800 N/mm
  • Greater flexibility than high tensile fencing 
  • Doesn’t need to be as tightly strained 
  • Good choice if you need a lot of turns or curves in your fencing 
  • Best suited for fencing that is supported by hedges
  • Knotted hinged joint
  • Galvanised to BSEN10244 standards
  • C8/80/15
  • L8/80/15
  • L8/90/15
  • L9/120/15
  • L20/145/15
  • L15/120/15
  • L23/200/15

Recommended Applications

Animal Min Height required

Mild Steel

(L Grade)

Mild Steel

(C Grade)

High Tensile Add Electrical Wire
Cattle 90cm
Bull 1.8m
Pig 75cm
Sheep 1m
Goat 1.2m
Llama 1.2m
Alpaca 1.2m
Horse 1.4m
Deer 1.5m
Large animals to lean against Any
General field boundary Any
Dog See dog fencing for more information
Chickens See poultry fencing for more information
Pheasant See game netting for more information
Fox See fox proof fencing
Badger See Badger proof fencing
Rabbits See Rabbit proof fencing

Wire Specification Comparison


Mild Steel

(L Grade)

Mild Steel

(C Grade)

High Tensile High Tensile PVC Coated
Cost £ ££ £££ £££
Made in EU EU EU EU
Conforms to British Manufacturing standards

BS EN 10223-5:2012

BS EN 10244-2:2009

BS EN 10218-2:2012

BS EN 1179:2003


BS EN 10223-5:2012

BS EN 10244-2:2009

BS EN 10218-2:2012

BS EN 1179:2003


BS EN 10218-2:2012

BS EN 10223-5:2012

BS EN 10244-2:2009


BS EN 10218-2:2012

BS EN 10223-5:2012

BS EN 10244-2:2009

Flexibility Most flexible Good flexibility Low flexibility Low flexibility
Delivered as As a roll. If the roll exceeds 33kg it will be delivered on a pallet
Material Lightweight mild steel Mild steel High tensile steel High tensile steel
Coating Galvanised Heavily galvanised Heavily galvanised Heavily galvanised with green ecover
Min height 80cm (2.6ft) 80cm (2.6ft) 80cm (2.6ft) 80cm (2.6ft)
Max height 2m (6.5ft) 80cm (2.6ft) 80cm (2.6ft) 80cm (2.6ft)
Increase height Add Barbed Wire or Tension Wire (view instructions)
Base & top wire diameter 2.5mm 3mm 2.5mm 2.5mm
Inside wire diameter 1.9mm 2.5mm 1.9mm 1.9mm
Type of knot Knotted hinge joint
Strength & Environment        
Corrosion resistance Good Very good Very good Excellent
Abrasion resistance Good Very good Very good Very good
Tensile strength range 695-850 N/mm2 695-850 N/mm2 1235-1390 N/mm2 1235-1390 N/mm2
Best if heavy livestock lean against fence    
Best if fence has multiple turns
Suited to animals See application list above
Recommended post spacing 2m 2m-3m 3m-5m 3m-5m
Can be installed with wooden posts

Yes, the most common option. Attach with Staples and Tension Wire.

(download instructions)

Can be installed with metal posts Yes, less common but a variety of metal posts are now available
Speed of installation Due to the product weight and tensioning required it takes longer than panels or wire mesh but it is also cheaper
Qty of people required to instal One experienced person or two people new to stock fence
Handle with protective gloves
Will stretch after installation?
Need retightening each year?

Installation Instructions

To Do Explanation

Step 1 – Mark the Post Location



Designate the positions of the posts, ensuring a spacing of 2-2.5 metres between each post.

Step 2 – Dig Holes



Dig a hole for the posts, making sure that the depth of the hole is approximately one-third of the length of the post.


Utilise a spirit level to confirm that the posts are completely vertical.

Step 3 – Position Upright Posts



With Concrete: Pour concrete into the holes, put the poles into the wet concrete and allow at least 1 day for the concrete to set. Cover the top of the hole with dirt.


Without Concrete: Place them in the middle of the holes, then fill the holes with large stones to hold the poles in place. Then add earth until tight and compact.

Step 4a – Dig Trench for End Posts



Measure and mark the position where the strut will be. This should be halfway off the ground for end respectively corner posts and positioned towards the fence run.


Dig a T-shaped trench about 30cm deep for the end of the strut to sit in and 30cm wide for the bearer.

Step 4b – Dig Trench for Corner Posts



Repeat step 4a but for corner posts, you should have 2 strut posts on adjoining sides.


These should be positioned towards the two fence runs that the corner post is joining.

Step 5 – Cut & Position Bearers



You should cut lengths of rail to act as bearers for the strut posts.


These should be a foot long and fit into the T shaped trench to stop the strut from slipping and thus providing support for the ends & corners of the fence run.


Place the bearers into the trench.

Step 6 – Cut Notches



Cut a shallow notch in the strainer post where you previously marked it.


Note: It is vital to ensure the notch is shallow; this keeps the post strong and doesn’t expose the untreated core of the post.

Step 7 – Attach the Strut Post



Shape the end of the strut to fit the notch in the post.

Place the sharpened end into the notch so that it’s secure, while sinking the rest of the strut into the trench.

Step 8 – Secure Strut



Wedge the strut in between the bearer and the strainer post – it should be a tight fit.


Cover the trench with earth and stomp it down.

Step 9 – Mark Wire Location



Begin by indicating the location for each wire strand on your posts.


You should have multiple lines of wire for a secure and taut fence as below:
– 2 lines are enough for heights up to 1.2 metres.
– 3 lines are needed above 1.2 metres in height.

Step 10 – Attach Wire to First Post



Securely attach the first wire strand to the lower section of the first post.


Loop it around the post, and wind it around itself 4-5 times to ensure it’s securely tensioned.

Step 11 – Secure Radisseur to Last Post



Use a smaller piece of wire to fasten a radisseur to the final post.


Note: skip ahead to step 14 if you don’t have a radisseur.

Step 12 – Secure Wire to Radisseur



Cut the first line of tensioning wire, leaving an additional 10cm of length for potential adjustments.


Pass the wire through the hole located at the center of the radisseur.

Step 13 – Tension the Wire



Use pliers to turn the pin on the radisseur in a clockwise direction.

Step 14 – Tension Without Radisseur



If a radisseur is not available, you can opt for an alternative by wrapping the wire around the post and coiling it around itself 4-5 times.


Employing this approach will lead to reduced tension in contrast to using a radisseur.

Step 15 – Secure to Middle Posts



Secure the wire to the middle posts with staples, leaving a small space to accommodate some movement within the staple.

Step 16 – Repeat Steps 11-15



Fasten the remaining wire lines by replicating steps 11-15.

Step 17 – Attach Mesh to End Post



Use enough mesh to cover at least the distance between the first two posts.


Fasten the mesh to the posts using staples or cable ties with intervals of 15cm.

Step 18 – Attach Mesh to Posts



Use enough mesh to cover at least the distance between the first two posts.


Fasten the mesh to the posts using staples or cable ties with intervals of 15cm.

Step 19 – Secure to Tension Wire



Ensure to fasten the tensioning wire to the fence at multiple points to preserve the tension of the fence.

Additional Step – With Barbed Wire



For applications where climbing may occur or where animals may push down on the top of the fencing wire, barbed wire should be installed to protect the fencing and stop potential climbers.


Important: Please note that barbed wire can cause harm to the livestock.



How do I cut wire mesh?
With wire cutting pliers or bolt cutters to ensure a smooth cut.

What can I cover the edges with?
Sharp edges should be folded up and under the bottom edge of a mesh fence, allowing grass to grow up from beneath. Alternatively, you can cover the bottom edge with timber boards.

When installing agricultural fencing, how far apart should the posts be positioned?
In most cases, 2-3 metres apart.