Metal Dog Fencing

After marking the posts, measure the total length between the ends. This measurement will enable you to order the appropriate length of fencing needed.

Ensure that the holes are three times wider than the poles in diameter. The depth of the holes should be equivalent to 1/3 of the length of the poles.

Without Concrete: Position the poles centrally within the holes, then use large stones to stabilize them in place. Subsequently, fill the holes with earth until tight and compact.

Once all poles are properly positioned, allow several days for the concrete to fully dry and set.

Note: If there is no pre-made slot available, adhere to the general guideline of attaching the brace at 2/3rd of the upright’s height and at a 45-degree angle.

Position the supports at the appropriate locations to ascertain where the holes need to be dug.

Excavate the hole, then place rubble at the bottom of it. Insert the angle support into the hole.

Cover the hole surrounding the angle support with soil and compact it firmly by stomping it down. Alternatively, you can also use concrete to secure it in place.

– 2 lines are enough for heights up to 1.2 metres.
– 3 lines are needed above 1.2 metres in height.

Mark the position for each wire strand on all poles, ensuring consistency to maintain the wire strands level with the ground.

Wrap it around the concrete, twist it backward, and wind it around itself 4-5 times to firmly secure the tension.

Note: Skip to step 14 if radisseurs are not available.

Thread the wire through the hole located in the center of the radisseur.

Note: Utilizing this method will indeed result in less tension compared to using a radisseur.

Important: Ensure that you unroll the mesh with the roll standing upright or placed on a flat and even surface, with the flap facing upwards to prevent snagging.

Fasten the mesh to the first pole using cable ties (or tie wire) at intervals of 15cm.

Use a spirit level to verify that the posts are perfectly upright.

Without Concrete: Position them centrally within the holes, then fill the holes with sizable stones to secure the poles in position. Subsequently, add soil until firmly packed and compact.

Excavate a T-shaped trench approximately 30cm deep for the end of the strut to rest in, and 30cm wide for the bearer.

These should be oriented towards the two fence runs that the corner post is connecting.

The rail lengths should be 30cm long and fitted into the T-shaped trench to prevent the strut from slipping, thereby providing support for the ends and corners of the fence run.

Insert the bearers into the trench.

Note: It’s crucial to ensure that the notch is shallow to maintain the strength of the post and avoid exposing the untreated core.

Insert the sharpened end into the notch securely, while allowing the remainder of the strut to sink into the trench.

Cover the trench with soil and compact it by stomping down.

You should have multiple lines of wire for a secure and taut fence as below:
– 2 lines are enough for heights up to 1.2 metres.
– 3 lines are needed above 1.2 metres in height.

Hook it around the post, twist it backward, and wind it around itself 4-5 times to secure the tension.

Note: skip ahead to step 14 if you don’t have a radisseur.

Thread the wire through the hole positioned in the center of the radisseur.

Using this method will result in less tension compared to utilizing a radisseur.

Secure the mesh to the posts using staples at 15cm intervals.